CHAPTER XXIV.

THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS, AND THE PRINCIPAL PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

It may be supposed that, in islands which, till lately, held little communication either with England or France, which have been governed by their own laws, and which preserve their ancient institutions, there should be customs and habits interesting in themselves, and remarkable as bringing down to modern times remnants of a former condition. Very little, however, of this

kind is now to be traced, and it would seem that the last quarter of a century has nearly swept away what few peculiarities formerly existed. Still, no one can go into the cottages and mix much with the country people without observing some characteristic points. Each cottage and old farm house has, in the kitchen or principal sitting-room, a wooden frame spread with dried fern, called the "lit de fouaille," or fern bed, on which the inhabitants repose in the evening. This custom is, no doubt, French, and very old. It is connected with all the habits and traditions of the people, and comes into use on such occasions as the vraic harvest, and on all festivals. The older people more especially resort to it; and though rough, it is by no means an unsightly piece of furniture. It corresponds with the chimney corner in an old English farm house where wood is still burnt, and where pit-coal is an unheard of novelty.

In Jersey and Guernsey, in the principal manorial residences, or frequently in some small outhouse or summer-house adjoining, there are held, from time to time, manorial courts, at which certain feudal customs are still retained. These are occasionally interesting. Thus, there may be seen in the courtyard of a farm, not far from Richmond Barracks, in Guernsey, a well-worn granite bench, in the open air, with a stone seat detached, in front of a small stone table, at which, within the last two years, the manorial court was duly held, the represen tative of the lord of the manor presiding, and the greffier seated apart at the little table. The fine manor house of St. Ouen, in Jersey, and several others, contains feudal relics and some portions of the mediæval buildings; but these are for the most part either in poor condition or too unimportant to possess great interest. Even the churches, as already explained, are generally without much that is important. Interesting excep tions occur in the case of the porch of the Vale church (see page 560), which is remarkable for style as well as exccution, and the porch of St. Martin's church (page 57), both in Guernsey.

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One or two of the churches in Jersey (St. Mary's and St. Lawrence's among the rest), also contain interesting specimens of architecture. These are more valuable for comparison with similar work in Normandy and England than for their intrinsic merit. There is some very beautiful and rather florid work in the interior of the town church in Guernsey. A niche, figured in page 541, affords a good example of its style.

Of the island churches at present-so far as this subject belongs to the present chapter-there is more interesting matter to be found in their general picturesqueness, in spite of neglect and injury, than in their special details. Few scenes are more characteristic than that represented in the illustration at the head of this chapter, where the little country church, simple and even ugly enough in many respects, lies embosomed among trees, preserving all that is wanted for beauty to the artist, though without much left for the lover of church architecture.

While the better houses and churches are thus nearly destitute of all that marks national character, the smaller farm houses are not unfrequently much more interesting. The cottages are generally well built of squared granite, and their doorways in Guernsey are remarkable for the round Norman arch. A sketch of such a doorway has been given in a former page (see page 60). In Jersey the round arch is very rare. With these exceptions, however, and the general style of the cottages, which is superior to what could be expected from their present inhabitants, there is little to be noticed even in this respect.

A fine specimen of the style of architecture of the towns is given in the engraving which forms the title of the present division of this work (see page 457). It is a view taken about twenty years ago, of a narrow passage leading out of the High Street of St. Peter's Port, Guernsey.

The Court Houses in all the islands are plain buildings, destitute of any architectural effect. That in Guernsey is detached, but resembles only a large house of ordinary construction. The

feelings that prompted them still exist, and are plainly expressed. The educational advantages open to the forties by their ample means, and fully made use of by them, have, however, dune away with any difference in manners that may formerly have been noticeable.

The divisions of society among the natives in Jersey have been quite as much marked as in Guernsey, but are more political than social. They are known as the Laurel and Rose factions respectively. In Jersey, however, the English residents form so large a proportion of the inhabitants as to make up several distinct societies, and thus there is much less dependance on the islanders than in Guernsey, where the English element is smal in comparison, and not sufficient to act independently. Ia Guernsey, the hospitality of the principal island families is freely extended to strangers who bring good introductions, and visits are readily interchanged with them.

Militia.

The feudal character of the island customs is nowhere more clearly shown than in the establishment of the militia. Every male between the ages of seventeen and sixty-five in Jersey, and between sixteen and sixty in the other islands, is bound to rer. T man-service to the crown, and this extends not only to the islanders by descent, and those born in the islands during the residence of their parents, but to all persons who derive income from any employment or trade carried on in them. The extent of this service, in law, is that each man should provide himse with arms and ammunition, attend drill when required, keep watch and guard round the island by night and day, repair the bulwarks, keep the garrison when no troops of the line are in the island, and perform all other services for defence. In Jersey there are six and in Guernsey four regiments of the line, and in Alderney and Sark several companies. There is also a regin...t of six companies of artillery in Jersey, and one of four 1

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Guernsey, besides those of Alderney and Sark. Subject to this service, the islanders are altogether free from other claims, and during the late war were not liable to impressment into the navy, nor can any man be required to leave his own island. Even in theory, however, the extreme service can only be exacted in time of war and very extraordinary emergencies. Neither does it appear that the militia have ever been subject to martial law.

In ordinary times of peace the dress, arms and accoutrements, as well as ammunition, are all supplied by the sovereign; and the days of drill and practice, whether rifle or artillery, are limited to a very small number. There are, however, always a certain number of field days, and all the regulations are capable of modification by the lieutenant-governor for the time being. The lieutenant-governor has it thus in its power to harass the population if he should think fit to do so. The total nominal strength of the Jersey militia is about ten thousand men; and that of Guernsey, Alderney and Sark is about five thousand. The number of men under arms is about half those numbers.

Strangers resident in the islands, and not deriving an income from any employment carried on there, are, in time of peace, altogether exempt. During war, they are, however, personally liable. The horses, carts, and other means of conveyance, of all persons are liable to be taken in time of war for the service of the crown in the defence of the islands.

Educational Institutions.

In the islands of Jersey and Guernsey there are several public institutions for educational, charitable, sanitory and other purposes, that require brief notice. Of these, some are of considerable antiquity, but most of them are due to the liberality of modern times. Some are exceedingly creditable-others rather the contrary.

Victoria College, in Jersey, is of recent institution, having